Editorial of july 2001

 

Answering to more and more frequent asks of globe-trotters who wish to visit Eastern Turkey, and in spite of many alarmist comments of some official sites and touristic guides, we could reasure the travelers : the region is neither a dangerous land nor a secund Kosovo. 

However, some areas are still presently in state of emergency and it is better to avoid Tunceli, Sirnak and Hakkari districts. Except these, Turkish Kurdistan is  today open for tourism. It would be a pity then for the travelers who whish it to be deprived of an exotic trip, and of its inhabitants' kindness and hospitality. 

We coud not make a personnalized trip for all the people who ask it. So we propose a journey in High Mesopotamia, through towns-stages that can not be overlooked.

After Nemrut Dag (all guides talk about it), you should not hesitate to go on Urfa (oldly Edesse). It has an old citadel and one of the most beautiful garden in the area, around the mosque  : canals, small bridges, shadowed places, and a basin with domestic carpus, venerated in memory of Abraham, whose the birthplace, Harran, can be visited, not far from the town. Urfa is a gastronomic town and its restaurants propose twelve different kebab (grilled meat).

 

After Urfa, you could continue to Mardin, one of the most nice towns of the High-Tiger area, with its carved houses, made in fair stone, risen on the slope moutain.

Historically, Mardin as a Christan as a Muslim town and its two main monuments are a mosque dated from the XIth century and a medieval monastery. 

For those who would like to stay here several days, we rather to warn them : it is different to the rest of the country, the nightlife is exceedingly dull and most of the shops close at 19 h !

 

 

From Mardin, go up to Diyarbakir, considered as the Kurds' capital.

The district is still in state of emergency, but it concerns only the inhabitants and you might not have any problem if you don't make a political meeting.
Diyarbakir is a very ancient town. It has noticeable black-stoned monuments and famous walls, of which the most beautiful parts date from the XIth century, carved with mythic animals and calligraphic friezes. 

The walls surrender the town on six kilometers, and overlook all the Tiger plain. The Great Mosque (Xth century) and the Caravansarai (XVth century) are some fine demonstrations of this Kurdish architecture, influenced by Armenia.

Photos

 

 

Farther to the East, don't miss the town and the site of Hasankeyf, threatened to be soonly swallowed by the construction of a dam. Hasankeyf is a very beautiful capital, with remains of a citadel that is almost antoehr town inside the town ; it is too one of the most ancient troglodyte villages still inhabited in Mesopotamia, and a wonderful natural site, with Tiger flowing between mountains, meadows and tree-gardens.

However, the area is unfortunately very hot in summer and if you like it moderately, we advise you to go to the North, on the border of Armenia-Kurdistan, where temperatures are lower. 

 

 

On the shores of Van Lake there are many touristic places and fine  monuments, mostly Armenian.

Photos

We only indicate Aktamar Island, with its old church, entirely carved with animals and people, and the town of Van, with its high citadel.

 

 

Farther to the North, next to Ararat Mont, one of the finest Kurdish castle, the Ishak Pasha's one, and the tomb of the more famous Kurdish writer, Ahmedę Khanî, could be visited from the town of Dogubeyazit.

Photos

 

 

Some practical informations at last : you could find hotels in all these towns, and prices are lower than in the Western part of Turkey. Let ask a "normal" hotel and not a "touristik" one, if you don't want to stay in too expensive places. But don't ask cheap hotel, because cheap places lack awfully of basic comfort. 

The most cheap and easy transports are bus and minibus (dolmus). They travel in all the country. All the companies are gathered in the "otogar". Domestic flights are more expensive but could be useful if you want to go directly from Istanbul to Van, for example. As individual car, we don't recommand it, drivers being so much capricious and... fearless.

Concerning the food, you should respect, as in all the hot countries, some basic hygienic rules. In general, you could eat good and cheap meal in the small restaurants. 

Another practical informatin : chemistries are well provided if you need them, and if you have any problam, don't hesitate to ask to the inhabitants, who are very helpful and hospitable. 

If you want more informations about the places you like to visit or an hotel, there are a tourism office in most of the towns.

Then, nice holydays and see you in September !

Sandrine Alexie & Roxane

Summary